Hair curler and waver



oct. 12 192e.

. 1,602,945 P. SARTORY HAIR CURLER AND wAvER Filed Feb. 1. 1922 I if : h M -T; l

mi l

Patented Oct. 12, 1926.

" unirse 4STATES PETER sARToRY, oF BAYSWATER, LONDON, ENGLAND.

HAIR CURLER AND WAVEN.

Application filed February This invention relates to mechanical hair curling appliances applicable for use in processes oi" permanently waving natural hair on the head, and likewise for permanently curling or waving artificial or dead hair at the bench.

The object of the invention is to provide a new and improved curling appliance for tensioning and stretching the hair wound thereon and alsoto provide improved means ttor clamping the curler to a tress of hair, while a further advantage ot' the invention is that the curlers for permanently waving the hair may be made of larger diameter than has hitherto been practicable.

ln known processes ot' permanently curling or waving naturalhair on the-head, or dead `or artificial hair at the bench, a tress oi hair is tightly wound upon and tied to a mandrel so as to retain the hairunder tension lforlfurther treatment. j. Y

ln processes of permanently waving natural hair, mechanical curling appliances are usually employed for tensioning the hair,

i each appliance comprising a rotatable tube mounted upon a relatively lixed rod, in` combination with a ratchet and detent, or other positive or frictional clutch mechanism, adapted to lock the tube when a tress of hair is tightened thereon. The rod projects i'rom one end ot the tube and is tied `close up to the roots of the tress of hair, the latter being' then helically wound upon and tied to the rotatable tube, whereon the Wound trcss of hair is tightened by suitably turning `the tube, while firmly holding the projecting end of the relatively stationary rod.

The tensioning and stretching of the ytress of hair wound on suclncurlers is difficult to control, and is frequently very unequal, a relatively small part being severely strained While the remainder is left relatively slacl, which is detrimental tothe success oi the waving process.

According to this invention` the rotatable tube or mandrel of a hair curling appliance of (he kind referred to, comprises a plurality ot tubular sections, each of which can be rotated independently oi the remaining sect-ion or sections.

Such' composite mandrel is carried on an axis memberor spindle, to `which one of the rotatable tubular sections is connected by suital'lle positive or trictional clutch mechanism, adapted to locksuch section to the 1, 1922. Serial No. 533,360.

axis or spindle, when the hair coiled thereon is in tension; while the axis or spindle projects rom one end of the composite mandrel, so thatthe appliance can be secured to a tress of hair.

The composite mandrel may comprise two rotatable sections, but preferably comprises two opposite end sections separated by intermediate sections.

In either case, the rotatable section at one end of the mandrel is connected by a detent or by a positive or a frictional clutch or like mechanism, with the axis member or spindle, while the'length of the compositeV mandrel can be varie-d by reducing or increasing the. number of its independently rotatable sections. i z

The severalmandrel sections may be each formed witha spigot,orbe otherwise adapted to fit togetherv end to end to form. a composite mandrel which can be rotated as aV whole on its axis Aor spindle, while when one of such sections is locked, the adjacent or the remaining section or sections can be rotated independently thereon, on the application of a sutlicient torque, the socketend of the adjacent section then j ournalling on .the spigotend of the locked section.

axis or spindle, to form a sectional mandrel which can only be rotated as a whole when the tress ot' hair wound thereon is tensioned.

In thelatter case the or spindle is of suicient length to extend through all the sections of the mandrel, while in the former case the axis or spindle may be short, so as to extend into the adjoining end section ot the mandrel, or be prolonged through all the sections of the latter.

AVhen the several rotatable mandrel sections are connected together by spigots, the latter maybe grooved or recessed, and be furnished with-spring detents that engage the socket endsof the adjacent sections, so that relative rotation of the `sections can take place in one direction only.

A composite mandrel so constructed, is preferablycarriedon a short axis member or spindle that is connected to the adjacent end section by means of a similar detent, so that such section can rotate inV one direction only on the axis or spindle, or any suitable `positive or-rictional clutch Inechanism may be provided lfor lockingsuch Alternatively, the several mandrel sec-l tions may be strung together on a suitable mandrel section to the axis or spindle when the tress of 'hair coiled on the composite mandrel is in tension.

Vhen the axis or spindle is prolonged through all the independent rotatble sections, the outer or opposite rotatable end scction is connected to the axis or spindle b y novel locking means. For this purpose such opposite mandrel section is split and provided with a screw clamp, or the like, whereby the split section can be tightened as required on the axis or spindle. By the application of a sufficient torque through a suitable lever, the section can be rotated on the spindle in either direction as required to tension the hair wound thereon, the hair being retained under tension by reason ot the friction lock between the spindle and the split section.

Each of the mandrel sections may be stii- Ylcned by an internal flange, perforated disc," or the like, that journals on the axis member or spindle when this extends through the Several sections of the composite mandrel.

Such stiflening means also enable the tubular sections to be made in different diameters so that by interchanging one set of sections with another set, composite mandrels oi. various diameters can be carried upon the same axis member 0r spindle.

The axis member or spindle is preferably tubular, to allow the employment of a novel adjustable clamping device for securing the curling appliance to a tress of hair without tying.

Such clamping device comprises a fixed boss or cross piece mounted on the projecting end of t-he tubular axis member or spindle, and an adjustable hook, the shank oi which is screwed and passes through the tubular axis member or spindle, and is secured and adjusted by means of a screwed sleeve or nut at the opposite end of the tubular spindle, while the returned end of such hook engages a slot or perforation in the boss or cross piece and forms a loop therewith.

rtlternatively, a screw flexible member, such as a Bowden wire, may be substituted for a rigid hook, the flexible member passing through the tubular spindle, its outer end being detachably secured to the boss or cross piece to form a lexibleloop that is tightened by means of a screw sleeve or nut at the opposite end of the tubular spindle.

The improved appliance is readily secured close up to the roots of a tress ot' hair by means of the improved clamping device, but if preferred the appliance may be otherwise secured to the tress of hair. The latter is then wound upon the Composite mandrel and secured thereto by means of a clip or otherwise as preferred.

A clip for this purpose comprises two arms which lie parallel with the mandrel and form a sort of cleat for securing the end or' the coiled tress ot hair, the points of which may then be neatly confined in any convenient manner.

The coiled hair is then evenly tightened and stretched on the composite mandrel by turning the same with a suitable key, or other means, while firmly holding the projecting spindle. As the coiled hair becomes tightened and stretched it successively locks the several rotatable sections of the mandrel until it is evenly stretched and tightened to the extent required.

Any return movement of the several sections of the composite mandrel is prevented by reason of the detents, or other positive or frictional locking means employed, the coiled hair being retained under tension for further treatment.

The several mandrel sections may be perforated to allow of such sections being independently adjusted by means oi a key or the like, when the coiled hair is in tension, the hair being displaced to allow olE the engagement of a key with a perforation as required.

My invention is illustrated by way of example in the accompanying drawings, in which Fig. l is a side view of one form of a curling and waving appliance embodying the present invention,

Fig. 2 is a detail view of the tubular spindle,

Figs. 3 and 4 are detail views of one of the rotatable mandrel sections employed therein, all drawn to an enlarged scale,

Fig. 5 is a side view of a modified construction of curling and waving appliance in accordance with the present invention,

Figs. 5, 6 and 7 are detail views drawn to an enlarged scale, further illustrating the construction thereof,

Figs. 8 and 9 are respectively side and end views of a further modified construction of curling and waving appliance in accordance with the present invention, and

Figs. l0 and 11 are detail views to an enlarged scale, further illustrating such construction.

ln each of the constructions illustrated, the curling and waving appliance is provided with a composite mandrel that comprises a root end section l and an opposite end section 2, between which intermediate sections 3 are arranged, the composite mandrel so formed being in each case carried on a tubular axis member or spindle 4.

As shown in Figs. l to il, each ot the mandrel sections l and 3 is provided with a grooved or recessed spigot 5, on which are secured spring detents (l, (see Figs. 3 and 4). rlhe spigots 5 ot the several mandrel sections are adapted to lit into the socket ends ol" the adjacent section to form a composite til) mandrel that can be rotated as a whole, while when one such section is locked, the adjacent socket section can be independently rotated on the spigot in one direction only, by reason of the spring detents 6.

The root end section 1 is coned, and is mounted on a short tubular axis member or spindle 4 that projects from one end of the section 1. As shownin Fig. 2, the spindle 4 is provided with 'a grooved boss 7 that forms a bearing for the coned end section 1, and is provided with spring detents 8 adapted to engage the inner' surface of the end section 1, so that the latter can rotate on the spindle 4 in one direction only. The detents 8 are arranged so that the direction of rotation relatively to the spindle 4, is the same as that of the relative rotation of the sections 1, 2 and 3 of the composite mandrel.

If preferred, the detents 6 and 8 on the spigot 5 Vand spindle 4, may be dispensed with, the spigots making a sufficiently tight V[it with' the adjacent sections, and the boss 7 adapted to make a sufficiently tight fit with the section 1 to prevent rotation except by the application of a suflicient torque. In the latter case the composite mandrel can be rotated as a whole on the spindle 4 in either direction, while the several sections can be independently rotated in either direction when the adjacent spigot section is locked.

In the construction shown in Figs. 5 to 7 the tubular axis member orspindle 4 eXd tends through all the rotatable sections of the mandrel. The mandrel sections 1 and 2 are each formed with a plain spigot end 5a in which a perforated boss or disc 9 (see Fig. 7), is secured, in order to stiffen such end. When the several sections are assembled to form the mandrel, th latter is supported by the perforated bosses or discs 9 which journal upon the prolonged spindle 4, while the spigot end 5a of each section 5 makes a frictional fit with the socket end of the adjacent section, so that the composite mandrel can be rotated as a whole upon the spindle 4, while when one of the spigot sections becomes locked, the adjacent section can be independently rotated in either direction on the application of arsuificient torque.

As shown in Figs. 5 and 6, the grooved boss 'l on the spindle 4, is arranged to form a bearing for the opposite end section 2 of the mandrel, and is provided with a spring detent S adapted to engage internal teeth 2a, see Fig. 5, forn'icd all round the inner surface of the end section 2, so that the latter can be rotated past the detent S in one direction only, and not in the opposite direction.

In the construction shown in Figs. 8 to 11, the composite mandrel is formed with plain cylimlrical end sections 1a and 2b, and plain cylindrical intermediate sections 3, all of which are strung on to the tubular spindle 4, so that each of such sections can be independently rotated in either direction. In this construction, the opposite end section 2h is connected to the spindle 4 by means of a novel frictional locking device. For this purpose the end section 2l is split, and vis provided with a strong split clamping ring 10 that is furnished with an adjusting screw 11. By tightening up the clamp 10, the split section 2b is locked as firmly as required to the spindle 4, so that the section 2b can be turned in either direction by the application of a sufficient torque. l

Each of the improved curling appliances illustrated is furnished with a preferred form of clamping device for readily securing the appliance close up to theroots of a tress of hair. Such curling appliance comprises a fixed boss or collar 12, secured to the outer end of the spindle 4 and provided with a lateral extension 13, and an adjustable member that consists of a hook 14 furnished with a screw shank 15 that passes through the tubular spindle 4, and is adjustably secured therein by means of a screwed sleeve or nut 15, while the outer end of the hook 14 takes intol a perforation 13 in the lateral extension 13 of the boss or collar and forms a loop with the same.

The clampingdevice canv be opened by slackening the sleeve ornut 15a, a tress of hair is then readily threaded through theI loop so formed and clamped by tightening the screwed sleeve or nut. The tress of hair is then coiled upon the composite mandrel, to the opposite end section 2 of which it is secured by means of a detachable springv clip, such as 16 (Fig. 1) which forms a cleat, or the tress may be secured in any other preferred manner. The coiled hair is then tightened and stretched upon the curler by .firmly holding the boss 12 and rotating the composite mandrel on the spindle 4.

In the construction shown in Fig. 1, the coiled hair tightens on` the end section 1 and'locks the same, the next section 3 continues to rotate independently of the section 1, until it; in turn becomes locked by the tightening of the hair wound thereon, and so `on through the entire series of sections, the hair being thus evenly tightened and stretched throughout its length, while the several sections 2 and 3 and the end section 1 areprevented from returning by means of a spring detent so that the hair is retained under tension for further treatment.

In the construction shown in Fig. 5, the hair similarly locks the several mandrel sections as it tightens and, stretches thereon, then by continuing to turn the opposite end section 2, the hair can be further tightened so that it successively causes the sections 3 and finally the section 1 to turn with the end section 2.

In the construction shown in Fig. 8, the

lill) ell) coiled hair is iii-st tightened on the split end section 2" and then as it tightens upon th'e adjacent section, it causes such section to turn with the section 2" and so on through the entire series ot' sections until the hair is effectively stretched and tightened throughout its length.

I claim as new and desire to' secure by Letters Patent:

l. In a hair curler and waver the com ination of a' composite rotatable niandrcl formed by a plurality of independently rotatable sections, with an axis n'iember, and means for lockinga terminal section ot said mandrel with said axis men'iber, to preven relative rotation between said axis member and said composite mandrel when a tress ot hair coiled upon the latter is in tension.

2. In a hair c'urler and waver the combination of composite rotatable mandrel formed by a plurality ot indejiiendently rotatable sections comprising a longitudinally split end section, with a tulm'lar axis member extending throiiigh all said mandrel sections each oi. which journals on said axis, and means for tighteningsaid split terminal section on said axis meniber for the purpose set forth.V

3. In a hair curler and waver the combination of a composite rotatable mandrel formed by a plurality oi independently rotatable sections that comprise a terminal section furnished with detachable means tor securing'l the end ot a tress ot haii" coiled upon said composite mandrel, with a tribular axis member, adjustable means carried by said axis member for securing the latter to the root end ot a tress ot growing hair, and means for locking said terminal section with said axis member to prevent relative rotation between the latter and said composite mandrel when the curler and waver is in use.

t. In a hair curler and waver the combination of a composite rotatable mandrel formed by a plurality ot independently rotatable sections that comprise a tern'iina section turnished with detachable means tor securing the tips ot a tress ot hair coiled formed by a plurality ot independently rotatable sections comprising a longitudinally slotted terminal section, a detachable double arm clip adapted to tit said slotted mandrel section and form a cleat 'tor securing the tips of a coiled tress ot hair, with a tubular axis member, adjustable means carried by said axis member for securing the latter to a tress of hair, and means tor locking said terminal section with said axis member to prevent relative rotation between the latter and said composite mandrel when the curler and waver is in' use.

6.y In a hair curler and waver the combination oi' a composite rotatable .mandrel formed by a plurality ot independently rotatable sections comprisingl a longitudinally split end section furnished with a de:- tachable means for securing` the tips of a coiled tress of hair, with a tubular axis member extendingithrough all said sections which journal loosely on said axis, means for securing said axis to a tress ot hair, a clamp ring on said terminal section, adjustable means tor contracting` said ring, and a projecting boss at one end ot said tubular axis member for operating the means tor securing the axis to a tress ot hair.

7. In a hair curler and waver the combination 01"' a con'iposite rotatable mandrel formed by a plurality of independently rotatable sections comprising a longitudinally split end section furnished with detachable means 'tor securingl the tips ot a coiled tress of hair, with a tubular axis member extending' through all said mandrel sections which journal loosely on said axis, a clamp ring on said end section, adjustable means ttor contracting said ring, a perforated cross piece secured to one end of said axis member, an axial hook member extending through said axis and adapted to torni a clamp with said cross piece, tor securing said axis to a tress of hair, and means tor axially adjusting and securing said hook member in said axis.

8. A hair curler comprisingy the combination otl a composite mandrel formed by a plurality ot independently rotatable tubular sections comprising,r a split terminal section having an integral clampingT ring, with a tubular axis member termed with a cross piece at one end, a hook member axially arranged within said axis member having its hook adapted to take into said perforated cross piece, and a rotatable nut member mounted on one end ot said hook member adjacent said clamp ring all as and tor the purposes set forth.

In testimony whereof I aiiix my signature.

PETER SARTORI?. 

